Mucking about in Co Kerry

Go Ireland:A family activity break in Kenmare was just the ticket for a bit of fun and relaxation, writes JUSTIN COMISKEY

MUD SURFING might not sound glamorous – and it’s certainly not in danger of becoming an Olympic sport any time soon – but by God it’s a great laugh and, as it’s compatible with our wet climate, it might just catch on here. It involves hitching a surfboard to the back of a quad-bike, squatting down and holding on for dear life as you’re dragged across a sodden field, turning this way and that until you either fall off in a heap or summon the courage to attempt a dismount.

We tried this unusual sport while on a family weekend activity break at the Sheen Falls Lodge hotel in Kenmare, Co Kerry. The hotel has teamed up with the nearby Eclipse centre to offer a fun-filled package for families who like a bit of the outdoors and some real pampering at one of the country’s top five-star hotels.

Earlier that Saturday morning we’d gone for a family horse-ride just off the Ring of Kerry. Not having any equine experience, it was a bit of shock to be in the mounted position so soon after arriving at the Eclipse centre – even stranger to see three of my children sitting happily on ponies of various sizes – and then downright disconcerting to be handed the reins to a fully-grown horse after a minimum of instruction. After two circuits of the parade ring we were off into the countryside – accompanied by three members of the Eclipse team – for a jaunt around the centre’s 40 hectares of meadows, paddocks, copses and hillside fields. It didn’t take me long to steer my steed into a low-hanging branch, give her an inappropriate click of the heels while going downhill – which only made the poor animal speed up and give both of us a fright – and make a bags of holding the reins.

Gradually, though, I got a handle on the steering and stopping – and the correct body positions to take when going up and downhill – and really enjoyed the ride, particularly as the elevated position from the saddle afforded a fine view of the area. Ahead were the MacGuillycuddy’s Reeks, behind the Beara peninsula and to the side the Atlantic. The kids couldn’t get the smiles off their faces, particularly crossing a few streams en route and passing by a small lake where trout were jumping. After a nervy dismount half an hour later, I reluctantly handed back the reins but was convinced that horseback is a great way for a family to experience the countryside.

After a short pitstop and instruction from the centre’s owner Athos on how to use a compass, we were off orienteering with the aim of collecting clues and earning points to allow us to bypass some of the harder obstacles on an army assault course we were supposed to complete later. Tales of a prop-forward from a local rugby club getting stuck in a muddy tunnel on the course – and having to be pulled out ankles first by teammates – were incentive enough to earn as many points as possible. The kids enjoyed working out how to read the compass, deciphering the clues and earned a high score for the exercise. But, with four kids under 12, we were never going to complete a full-on assault course, and that’s where the mud-surfing came in.

Kitted out in helmets and glasses to stop mud and grass getting in eyes, some of the little ones were a bit nervous stepping on the surfboard but a few seconds later were having a great laugh as the quad-bike made its way across the soft ground – albeit at an appropriately slow speed. They held on firmly to a special grip and never once looked like coming off. It was a different story for the adults: we were encouraged to let go of the grip after a short while before standing upright in a typical surfing stance. This proved a lot easier than it sounds and soon we were hell-riding across the field doing figure-of-eight shapes in to the bargain. Aileens, Prowlers – eat your heart out. But then came a botched dismount at speed, sending me head-over-heels and I ended up looking much like the prop-forward who got stuck in the muddy tunnel.

On arrival back at the hotel, caked in mud from head to toe, I feared being bounced by the doorman or, at the very least, getting a withering you-can’t-come-in-here-like-that look. “I see you’ve had a great time at the Eclipse centre,” said the doorman, “the muck is a sure sign you had a laugh.”

After a quick clean and change of clothes we headed into Kenmare for a late lunch and a potter about. Situated at the head of Kenmare Bay, the town is one of the prettiest in the county and its principal streets still have the shape and look of when they were planned in the early 1800s. There’s also no shortage of tourist tat but, if you look a bit closer, there are plenty of nice shops, cafes and restaurants.

Just then the weather changed and it bucketed. When the weather’s kind there are any number of things you can do roundabout Kenmare – the town is littered with brown signs notifying you of walks, cycling trails, places of interest, historical sites – but, with the heavens letting it rip, what were we to do? Good job the Sheen Falls has a spa, health club and pool. It was too late to book a massage but the pool kept the kids happy while the adults took to the raging waters of the giant Jacuzzi or sweated it out in the sauna and steam room.

With the deluge showing no sign of abating we returned to our rooms, the kids retreating to theirs with DVDs secured from reception and, as The Irish Times was sold out in Kenmare by 2pm on Saturday, I phoned the doorman on the off chance that a copy of the paper might be lying about somewhere. A knock on the door followed two minutes later and the doorman produced a fresh copy of the paper. I settled into a comfy chair for a read and, as a seal went about its business at the bottom of the waterfall below my window, not even Morgan Kelly’s doom and gloom could spoil the moment.

There were two choices for dining at the hotel: a formal restaurant, La Cascade, with a pianist playing in a corner or an informal bistro. My offspring not having perfected the art of formal dining yet – never mind sitting down in the one place for longer than 30 minutes – we opted for the bistro. The food, like the service, was first class. The oysters for starters were as big as your hand and seriously meaty while the main course – lamb, sea trout or sirloin steak – was memorable. The on-hand sommelier was also a great help around the extensive wine list.

But, like so much else about the Sheen Falls, it was the little things that really stood out – like the freshly-made in-house biscuits with the post-meal pot of coffee. The biscuits were very hard to share with the kids but, without even having to ask, the waitress arrived with another plateful just for the little ones.

All too soon it was Sunday morning and checking out time, but not before a fine breakfast overlooking the falls – now more like raging rapids after the heavy rain – to set us up for the drive back to Dublin. As the doorman brought our car around in front of reception and packed our luggage in, and as the kids begged us to stay another night, the thought crossed our minds that we could get used to this.

Getting there: driving from Dublin it's quickest to follow the motorway to Cork before taking the ring road around the city and on to the Killarney road, turning off later for Kenmare. An equally good route, according to the locals, is to opt for the motorway to Limerick and, after rounding the city, taking the Killarney road and subsequently on down to Kenmare.

My satnav, however, directed us off the motorway through the verdant rolling countryside of north Co Cork, past towns such as Fermoy, Mitchelstown and on to Kilgarvan (Jackie Healy-Rae country). This added half an hour to the four-hour drive from the M50 but the north Cork scenery was more than worth it. On the way back we stopped off in Kilkenny city for a few hours, lunching in the castle, walking its grounds and checking out the Kilkenny Design shop across the road.

Justin Comiskey and family were guests of Sheen Falls Lodge hotel. A “Family Fun at the Falls” package costs €999 for three nights for a family of four. This includes B&B, transfers and full day access to the kids’ camp at the Eclipse centre (including lunch) and is available Monday to Friday (weekends on request) from July 4th to August 26th. See sheenfallslodge.ie or tel 064-6641600.